How bagels became the sourdough of 2024

When a seemingly inconspicuous bakery opened in Primrose Hill, north London, in October 2023, the hype took people by surprise. TikTok was awash with videos of huge queues. But the crowds weren’t there for the breads and pastries that every trendy bakery over the past decade has served – flaky croissants, cinnamon buns or sourdough loaves. They were there for bagels.