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The beautiful Greek region of soaring mountains and villages untouched by time

    I woke on the first morning to the smell of woodsmoke from my fireplace, and to the view of brittle sunlight hitting the rocky mass of the Astraka Towers. Outside, the air was crisp. Birds twittered, darting among the pines, and lights from the tiny villages dotting Mount Tymphi twinkled across the valley.

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